General News · 18th January 2012
Richard & Carol Trueman
Snowbirds Go South Part 5-D
From Melaque to Leon via Primera Plus at 8 AM. A first class bus trip with only 2 stops in-between, Atlan and Guadalahara, 9 hours long, $45 each. In retrospect we made the mistake of picking the two front seats to the right of the driver with a magnificent view to the front and the right. The first 3 hours of the journey we climbed twice through mountainous switchbacks to agricultural plains. Carol got sick and I queasy, we both had to close our eyes and miss a lot of the scenery. The good bus driver was a holy terror negotiating the curves, some of which had a dead drop without guardrails. (I mean the pavement just rolled off and down without ANY verge! )
With the straights in the valleys and in the last half of the journey, especially between Guadalahara and Leon, we came to enjoy the journey and landscape; Kamloops kind of dry scrub, mostly cattle country with blue skies and puffy clouds. The bus station was near the centre of Leon and we just had to stumble a block to an adequate hotel, Hotel Abraham, $30 a night.
We searched one of the main streets a block away for a suitable restaurant for supper at 6 PM. The first one when we asked, in my pretty good spanish, if they still served eggs, that my wife was vegetarian and that she would like an omelette without any meat. Yes, they still served eggs but that they could not provide an omelette without meat. I repeated myself; she stuck to her guns; no omelette that was not on the menu - they could not leave anything out. We said good-bye and continued looking.
The second place was a corner open air restaurant and with my same explanation they said YES they could do what we wanted. I ordered Chilis Rellenos, cafe con leche and Carol her omelet without meat but with cheese. We both added a side of fries. My battered covered Chilis Rellenos with salad, rice and fries came first then came Carol’s fries, tortillas, and a LARGE BOWL OF MELTED CHEESE -no omelet We laughed. (Once before in Mazatlan when we ordered a grilled cheese sandwich, we received a side order of toast and large bowl of melted cheese.) We are not sure at which stage the translation failed, but we took it in our stride and Carol had tortillas with my rice and gobs of melted cheese with a topping of diced onions and shredded cilantro. Quite nice.
The next day with a minimum of breakfast (in case of another mountainous journey) we purchased a first class ticket to San Miquel de Allende , $12 each, with seats several back from the front of the bus. The scenery was more parched, high rolling plains with lots of cactus. We arrived and taxied ($40 pesos) to our new casita for two weeks. Gordon and Muriel are our hosts across the interior courtyard in the main house.
Included in the link below are 15 shots of the interior of our casita, then some shots from El Centro in San Miguel and finally a few from Melaque.